Collegiate West: Day 1

Helene and I arrive at the trailhead at Twin Lakes around 10:30 under a sky that is more cloudy than blue. A quick check of my gear, I put on my shoes and gators, and I am on my way. The first few miles are easy with a nice tread and relatively flat geography, and I soon find a pretty quick pace that feels good. My goal is to get up and over Hope Pass, at an exposed 12,500’, before the threat of lightning, typically an afternoon concern, becomes an issue. The late start and Hope Pass being nearly nine miles away and 3500’ higher has much to do with the pace I set.

           

The sky is slowly losing its clouds to a rich blue that puts any thoughts of needing my raingear away. In spite of my desire to get up and over the pass, I can’t help but notice – and stop to photograph – several wildflowers that welcome me to the trail – senecio, cinquefoil, lupine, wild rose. After a few miles, the trail takes a left for a more southerly bearing, and the flat easy trail becomes steep and rocky. The quick pace is soon put away with the thoughts of raingear.

A short break to lose my fleece jacket, apply some sunscreen, and have a snack, and I am back on what feels like a slow trudge up an unpleasant rock-strewn trail that once was an old jeep trail. I’ve been climbing for a mile or so when I begin to hear voices. I soon discover they are coming from a group of about 25 teenagers that apparently are finding the trail much more difficult than I am. I leave them behind just as the trail is opening up into a gorgeous alpine wonderland.

The trail narrows and is no longer full of bowling ball sized rocks – that’s good. But the steepness only intensifies as I near the pass. I begin some of the little games I use when a climb brings that “this is sort of like having fun, only different” thought to my oxygen deprived brain. Fifty steps, then I stop for a rest. Thirty steps, then rest. Ten steps… I will make it to that rock, and then stop for a rest. Fortunately, the skies remain nonthreatening, so I don’t feel any great need to move any faster than I am moving. If I keep putting one foot in front of the other, I will get there. What seems like a torturously slow pace on legs that sometimes feel like they are filled with wet cement, I still eventually make it to the top of the pass. OK, I have earned a sit down break, and something substantial to eat.                 
Shortly after making it to the top, a fellow, around age 30, wearing red running attire that included what looked like a light pair of open sandals, arrives and sits down nearby. I remember seeing him two or more hours ago, running down the rocky trail I was climbing. We get to talking, and I learn that Daniel is training for the Leadville 100, a 100-mile mountain footrace that includes two runs to the top of Hope Pass, one from each side. This is his second visit to the top of the pass today in a 25-mile training run. Suddenly, I feel kind of wimpy – here is this guy, running up and down and all around these mountains, in these ultra-light sandals or whatever they are, and I’m complaining to myself about how steep and rocky the trail is. I rationalize that this is my first day on this trek, and I will soon find my trail legs. And he’s so much younger than me. Yeah, that too! These thoughts kind of make me feel a little less like a wimp. Kind of. A little.

The hike down the other side does not have the long, lung-busting climb, but the steepness in reverse on many scree-filled switchbacks is not all that fun either. I finally make it down off the mountainside and begin looking for a place to camp – relatively flat with water nearby. The right spot is not appearing, so I keep on hiking. I hear the howls of several coyotes and smile. I’m tired, as it must be approaching 7pm, but it feels good to once again be out in wild Nature. Knowing I got here, self-powered on these two feet of mine (the original ATV), carrying all that I need to be nourished and warm and dry on my back, with coyote music in the aspen air, makes this moment all the more satisfying. I am feeling a lot less wimpy too.

Tentatively heading out in a couple of weeks!

Reports from the Colorado Trail Foundation Facebook page say that there is still quite a bit of snow on the Collegiate West segments of the trail. But, reports also indicate that it is melting rapidly. So, I have tentative plans to begin my trek sometime during the week of July 21 - but will hold off longer if the snows remain deep. These photos are what I am looking to avoid, as slogging through long stretches of deep snow is not what I have in mind for this trek!

When to Go, When to Go?

I've been looking at my schedule and have narrowed down when I will likely do this backpack to the last two weeks of July. As of now, I plan on doing the trek over around 8 days. This will be quite a bit less miles per day than I did back in 2010 and 2011 - by design, as I want a bit of an easier pace this time around. I was in Salida a week ago, and the looks of the high country which I'll be traversing on this hike still look pretty snowy, so I am figuring that by later July the snows will be much thinner. I must admit, I am beginning to feel some excitement for getting out there. Seeing photos like this one that I took in 2010, looking up into the high Collegiates where I'll be hiking, sure makes me itch to be out there in that high thin air.

Hitting the Trail Once Again for Nature Education

A few weeks ago, I found myself in front of a small group of people from around the country who had flown in for a retreat at the Horseshoe Lodge. I was presenting on my adventures along the Colorado Trail that I did a few years ago. It was a pleasure to relive the many miles of amazing scenery, sharing stories of the trail, and connecting the adventure to the reason behind it – to raise funds for MPEC’s Nature education programs.

 Last year, I got word through the Colorado Trail Foundation – the organization that stewards the trial – that the Colorado Trail was expanded to include 80 additional miles of trail through the spectacular Collegiate Peaks, home to a dozen of the state's 14,000-foot mountains. The new "Collegiate West" forms a western complement to the classic 80-mile stretch of Colorado Trail on the eastern side of the Collegiate Peaks from Twin Lakes, southwest of Leadville, to south of Monarch Pass, southwest of Salida.

It did not take long for me to come up with the idea that I needed to hike this new 80-mile stretch. Along with learning about the new section of trail, last year presented MPEC with some budget challenges associated with some unexpected expenses while dealing with cuts from some funding sources. The fact is that many local non-profits have not felt any significant improvements since the economy took a nosedive several years ago.

Since the original Colorado Trail Fund-Raising effort was a success, it only makes sense that this new section of trail is providing another opportunity for MPEC. So, sometime this summer, I will be backpacking these new 80 miles with the intention of raising money for MPEC’s Nature education programs. We have set a goal of raising $24,000 from the hike, which translates to $300 per mile. Please consider making a pledge to what we are calling Ranger Dave’s Collegiate West Fund-Raising Backpack for Nature Education. You can go to MPEC's website, click on the Help MPEC Grow icon on the lower right of the page, and then choose Ranger Dave’s Backpack as the donation category. Every penny that is raised will directly support MPEC’s programs that help children experience the wonders of Nature. Thanks so much!

It's three weeks ago today...

...that I completed the trail, and I'm still hungry all the time....I am wondering if my already fast metabolism got kicked up a notch from those days on the trail. Whatever it is, I am so enjoying the good foods I've been eating...homemade tomato soup (that Helene made last weekend), lots of salads, and the fresh fruit has been great, especially all the fresh peaches -- there is nothing quite like a fresh, perfectly ripe organic peach from Colorado's western slope!

We had a cold wet snap come through Colorado the last few days...I heard that the high country, including the stretch I just hiked, would be getting a good hit of snow. I am glad I got out there when I did!

The Pueblo Chieftain had me write another installment for the paper, which I so enjoyed writing. It is scheduled to run on September 20...I'll put a link in this blog next week.

I've finished adding the new photos and songs to my musical slide presentation, which I will be doing this Sunday afternoon, Sept 18, at the home of Susan Stiller's in Pueblo, hosted by Susan and MPEC Board Member Lamar Trant. Call me at home at 485-3191 if you want to attend. I'll be doing more of these the next few months, including at MPEC, after a soup, bread, salad and dessert dinner, on November 5. We just passed the $80/mile mark...thanks to all who are supporting this effort, as MPEC is as busy as ever with our Nature Education programs! I'm still working towards the goal of $100/mile!

Photos of the last 74 miles at Facebook page!

I have about 25 photos of my last four days on the CT at my facebook page here!

Hiking Myself Back Home!

I am happy to write that last Friday, Aug 26, I dropped down into the Junction Creek drainage a few miles north of the city of Durango and then hiked the final two and a half miles to the Junction Trailhead...I have now completed the 485.8 miles of the Colorado Trail. And it feels terrific! It was a multi-faceted final 74 miles, which I hiked over 4 days, with plenty of rain, and the most lightning of the entire trail to deal with. The mountain scenery was spectacular and the wildflowers were still in very good form. As I dropped in elevation as I hiked the final Section 28, I began to notice ponderosa pine trees, a lower elevation tree that is a part of my daily life here at home and at MPEC, but a tree I hadn't seen much of along the trail since I've been up so high for the last several hundred miles. Yes, it felt like I hiked 486 miles only to wind up right back at home! Helene and I took a few days after the hike and wound up in Santa Fe for some much appreciated rest and relaxation. And now, home again!

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this fund-raising effort...we are now up to $74 per mile and still working towards the $100/mile goal. I have several musical slide presentations scheduled this fall, and hope to schedule more of them (call 719-485-4444 of you'd like to schedule one of these enjoyable, informative and entertaining presentations).

Happy trails, Ranger Dave

One Last Time!

It is Saturday evening, and I've enjoyed a restful day at home, getting ready for my final leg of the trail. I've got 74 miles left to complete the Colorado Trail, which I will be doing this week. Jim Redfern, the terrific contractor who I've worked with for the last five years in renovating the Horseshoe Lodge, has kindly offered to drive me to Durango, a five hour drive, on Monday. Friends Mindy and Patrick Meiering generously offered for me to spend the night at their home in Durango, then a ride to Molas Pass on Tuesday morning where I will start the 73.9 miles of Sections 25-28. I'm so pleased to be at this stage of the hike...it's been a lot of planning, driving, and especially, putting one foot in front of the other. And I am so excited to have the completion for this challenge a few days away. Of course, I still have a good hike ahead of me, but I am rested and ready! I expect to get to the the end of the trail, just outside of Durango, on Friday or Saturday. Pledges and donations continue to come in and I am at over $73 a mile so far. The funds being raised are directly supporting MPEC's education programs, with an emphasis on this year's Earth Studies program. Through ES, every 5th grader from Pueblo City Schools, around 1300 kids, gets 6 full days of Nature-based education spread throughout the school year. Serendipitously, this year's first day of Earth Studies is this Tuesday as well. All week, while I'm covering the final miles of the CT, students from Parkview, Baca, Spann and Carlile Elementary Schools, many of whom will be going to the mountains or taking a hike for the first time in their lives, will be in Pueblo Mountain Park kicking off the the 10th year of MPEC's award winning ES program. That is all the motivation I need to complete the hike!

It was a great hike!

I believe that I now have a favorite section of the Colorado Trail, at least so far, after 412 miles, with 74 remaining: Section 24, specifically the Elk Creek drainage in the Weminuche Wilderness surrounded by the spectacular Grenadiers. The Grenadiers are a group of mountains composed of quartzite, a hard and weather resistant rock that is rather rare in the Southern Rockies.

I started this 4-day trek at Spring Creek Pass, which is north of Creede and south of Lake City, at about 8:30 on Saturday morning, July 30. Helene hiked a mile or so with me and got a taste of the hike. After she headed back, I climbed onto Jarosa Mesa, then up and down to mile 9.2 at treeline with dark clouds brewing by mid-day. I opted to spend the night there to avoid being up in the exposed alpine landscape with lighting bolts shooting all around (an event that actually never happened anywhere near me anytime during this trek). I was up at five the next two mornings...hiked over the Colorado Trail's high point at 13,271', and made it to an un-named lake at mile 5.7 of Section 23 before the clouds kept me back once again. After a rainy night (the un-named lake is now called "Rained All Night Lake"), I was on the trail again before 6am, hiked through some cold rain just beyond Stony Pass into Section 24, and had clear enough skies to scoot across some high exposed alpine and down into Elk Creek. The final half mile before dropping off the high ridge greeted me with wind, cold rain and thick fog (but no electricity). As I descended into the drainage, the fog and rain slowly cleared and the spectacular landscape began to reveal itself. Wow, it was gorgeous...incredible rocky mountains, vibrant wildflowers and multi-textured skies combined to make a most memorable and striking section of the hike. I had to hike a few more miles down the trail to find a suitable place to hike, making for a 20-mile day, but an easier 12 miles for the last day's hike. My final day included seeing and hearing the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad that travels along the Animas River and a long but rewarding climb out of the Animas River valley to Molas Pass and the end of another 53 miles of the CT. More photos can be found at my facebook page http://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.1884093183433.2093698.1274464053&type=1.

CT's Highest Point Here I Come!

With summer rolling by, I've only a limited window to complete the Colorado Trail, so here I go once again. I am heading out of Beulah this Friday afternoon to spend the night in Creede with Helene (it's her birthday), then I will take off from Spring Creek Pass Saturday morning. I am giving myself until Wednesday to complete Sections 22-24...afternoon thunderstorms may slow me down. Needless to say, I'll be packing up early each day to get my miles in before noon. Section 22 will bring me to the trail's highest point of around 13,300', right near a peak called Coney's Summit. Molas Pass, a few miles south of Silverton, is my destination. I am looking forward to some phenomenal scenery, as most of these miles are above timberline. Look for my post-hike report.

Now THAT was a hike!

All last year, across the first 267 miles of the CT, hardly a drop of rain fell on me. Not once did I pull out my rain gear. Well, that does not seem to be how 2011's miles are shaking out. Not so far, anyway. Hail, a late morning thunderstorm, off-and-on afternoon rain, early morning fog...wet is now a word to add to my CT experience.

I am happy to say that, beyond the added tasks associated with all the moisture (e.g. drying out the tent, being sure key gear stayed dry), it didn't really cramp my style all that much. The biggest challenge came from the fatigue associated with 4 consecutive 20-mile days. Combined with lots of elevation gains, these miles really wiped me out. I'll admit it, when the last day's 12 and a half miles were nearly complete as I approached Spring Creek Pass where Helene was meeting me, I was ready to be off the trail.

Not that the 90.6 miles were all wet and tired...I saw so much beauty (mountain vistas, gorgeous sunsets, lovely wildflowers), I successfully met the challenge of all those miles, my body kept on keeping on, and I raised more revenue for MPEC's education programs, so young folks can continue experiencing the natural world through our programs. Not a bad way so spend five days in July.

I am now 358 miles into the 485-mile adventure. This leaves 127 miles of some of the most beautiful mountain scenery Colorado has to offer left to hike. Of course, the on-going challenge is how to fit the rest of these miles into all the other things I need and want to do this summer. But, a plan to finish the CT in two more separate treks is taking shape...more as that firms up. Here are a few photos from along the trail. Also, you can check out a recent Pueblo Chieftain article on my Colorado Trail Hike by clicking here.

OK, here I go again!

Reports have it that the high-country snows are rapidly melting, so Plan B has been formulated. Helene and I will be heading out of Beulah this Saturday to spend our 35th anniversary (which is July 10...wow, it's been three and a half decades since our bi-centennial wedding in Queens) in Salida. We will spend Sunday evening camping at Marshall Pass. I will set out on Section 16 Monday morning, and Helene will head home. I plan on hiking Sections 16 through 21, a 91 mile trek, over five days and will meet Helene on Friday afternoon at Spring Creek Pass on CO Hwy 149. That is the plan...let's see how this goes.

A couple more weeks and I'll be back on the trail!

It's been October since I hiked down into Marshall Pass and completed 2010's Colorado Trail miles. My feet are itching to get back out there, and it looks like the itch will soon be relieved. My plan is to get dropped off at Marshall Pass (which is southwest of Salida) after a dinner in Salida on Thursday, June 23 and get in a few miles. Then, over the next six days, hike to Spring Creek Pass, 91 miles from my dropoff. A couple of issues I anticipate are few reliable water sources over the first 50 miles or so, and then potentially deep snow towards the latter part. As for water, this will require being very careful about where and how far the next creek or spring is. I am hoping the above average winter of snow will help with this issue. Speaking of snowfall...the Colorado high country overall has received 249% of average snowfall this past winter. I've been trying to find out snowpack conditions along this section of trail, as I do not want to deal with long stretches of six feet deep, wet snow. I still have two+ weeks before I am out there, and it is warming up as summer weather takes hold. So I believe I will be ok, but I will continue to find out what I can as my plan is to average around 15 miles each day...deep sloppy wet snow will make that very difficult, and maybe not possible. More on all of this soon...

Done for the year!

I excitedly started this fund-raising hike on Sections 1, 2 and 3 last May, with snowy signs of winter lingering along the trail. Many summer and autumn miles have since been hiked until this past Monday, October 11, when I hiked Section 15 to Marshall Pass. This was the last section of the Colorado Trail that I will hike in 2010. And winter is already quickly arriving to the CT with snow along the higher parts of the section's 14.3 miles. I am most pleased to have hiked 267.6 miles for Nature education this year, well past the CT's halfway point and my goal for 2010. This leaves 218.2 miles for next year - piece of cake!

Here are a few photos from Section 15 (1. first snow along the trail; 2. on the Continental Divide; 3. looking back; 4. the distant San Juan Mountains, where the trail is heading) - the scenery was gorgeous on a cool but gentle day. It's wonderful what can be accomplished, simply by putting one foot in front of the other. I am already looking forward to next year's miles along the Colorado Trail. Thank you so very much to all who have supported this hike for Nature education!

Another 23 miles brings me close to the CT's halfway point!

Section 13, 22.8 miles from North Cottonwood Creek to the Mt. Princeton Hot Spring area, was pleasantly hiked yesterday. I had some company on this section...friend and MPEC supporter Jacqui Brooks came all the way from her home in Spain (Jacqui is from Wales in the U.K.) to hike the first 9 miles, the section's biggest climb right out of the initial trailhead (where Helene dropped us off). Jacqui is doing lots of other things while here on holiday, but this may have been one of the highlights of her trip. My lovely wife Helene, friend and MPEC supporter Barbara Jackson and her friend Jerry (plus his two little dogs) hiked a few miles from the Avalanche TH to the Cottonwood Lake Road, where I enjoyed a light and tasty lunch before taking on the remaining 14 miles solo (I sang Carol King's Home Again, JT's There Something in the Way She Moves, and the Everly Bros.' All I have to Do is Dream along these quick miles). Barbara and Jerry whipped up a delicious and most welcome post-hike dinner in their camper at Cottonwood Hot Springs (thank you!), where Helene and I (and Jacqui) tented Friday and Saturday evening...the hot water before and after the hike was divine. This brings me to 232 miles, just a few miles short of the CT's halfway point (my goal for 2010)...which I hope to hike soon. What a great weekend in Colorado's high country!

Songs that brought me beyond the 200 mile mark of the CT!

Folks often ask me what I think about while walking so many miles, by myself, in these relatively wild places. I've found that I have mainly been very much in the moment while hiking, thinking about where I am along the trail (frequently checking the map), how much water do I have and where is the next water source, and the trees, flowers, tracks and what else I am seeing. I am pleased to say that I have for the most part not brought work or other issues with me to clutter my mind. I also find myself singing a lot while I walk, both to myself, and often out loud. These are some of the songs that accompanied me along this last stretch, Sections 10, 11 and 12: These Days (Jackson Browne); Kathy's Song (Paul Simon); I Will (Paul
McCartney): Take Me Home Country Roads (John Denver); Homeward Bound (Paul Simon).

Colorado Trail Sections 10, 11 and 12 starting tomorrow!

After nearly 3 weeks since I've been on the trail, I've been itching to get back out there. So, tomorrow afternoon, my good friend, and one of MPEC's founding Board Members, Elaine Lopez Pacheco, has generously offered to drive me to the trailhead west of Leadville. I hope to get a few miles in before the night, then 3 good days of hiking, with the goal of making it a few miles into Section 13 west of Buena Vista (Cottonwood Pass area) by Sunday afternoon. This should put me past the 200 mile mark. I am so pleased to say that we are at nearly $48 per mile in pledges, which is just about halfway to my $100 per mile goal. So, every mile brings that much more support towards getting kids out into Nature. Thank you so much to all who have pledged! I'm rested, I'm ready, here I go...

A great weekend of hiking!

Another 39 miles and sections 8 & 9 are complete, bringing my total miles of "hiking for Nature Education" to 156. Alex Martinez hiked all 39 miles with me this past Saturday and Sunday, and those miles were a treat to our senses, even if we moved through them at a pretty good clip. The scenery was gorgeous, the wildflowers were in great form, and the weather was very cooperative.

Section 8 included hiking over Searle and Kokomo Passes and ended at Tennessee Pass. The trail climbing was generally moderate in this section, and several miles were above treeline, so the scenery was spectacular. Section 9 spent much time in the trees, but once the trail broke out into the open, the distant views were just as spectacular. Much of Section 9 was in the Holy Cross Wilderness. The area around mile 8 of this section, with a few small lakes, open grassy meadows, and plenty of wildflowers, was exceptionally lovely...I could see myself backpacking into this area and spending a few days exploring, and just being, in such a beautiful place. The last couple of miles dropped steeply into the Turquoise Lake area and the terminus of the section. A gentle rain cooled us just as we began the steep descent.

Alex is an avid hiker, bicyclist, and runner, so there certainly was an element of "clicking off the miles" as we enjoyed the scenery. Alex is a Justice on the Colorado Supreme Court, and so I also enjoyed getting a bit more of a glimpse of the job of a Supreme Court Justice through some of our many conversations. It certainly was a great weekend of hiking! Alex took a bunch of terrific photos. Here is a link to Alex's photos.

Back on the trail!

In the morning, I plan on getting back onto the Colorado Trail, this time taking off from Copper Mountain for Sections 8 and 9. My friend Alex Martinez plans on hiking about 17 miles on day one with me, ending up in the old Camp Hale area. (Camp Hale was a WWII military base where the 10th Mountain Division learned mountain skills, such as winter survival and skiing. Many 10th Mtn. Division veterans returned to Colorado after the war and were instrumental in developing the ski industry.) If all goes according to plan, I will finish Section 8 and then Section 9 on the following day or two (how long it takes me depends on how strong I feel). This will put me past the 150 mile mark and into the Sawatch Range, heading south along the eastern side of the Collegiate Peaks. Pledges are above $36 / mile - so the next few days of hiking will bring over $1400 towards our Nature Education programs. Thank you for making this effort a success!

Mile 100 passed and looking forward to the next 100!

A couple of fairly long days of hiking and so much gorgeous scenery and now Section 6 is complete. I enjoyed the good company of Tim Sandsmark, who helped with vehicle shuttling, and then hiked the first 6 miles of the trail with me. Thanks so much, Tim. Tim is an excellent photographer, and you can check out his photos of the hike at http://coloradotrailsection6.shutterfly.com/.

I then continued up and over the Continental Divide at Georgia Pass. This was the highest point of the hike thusfar, at 11,800'. There were several snow drifts to maneuver over, but they presented no real problem except for a bit of snow in my shoes (I was too lazy to put on the gaiters). I camped at mile 17.1 and enjoyed a lovely "close-to-full moon" and the melancholy song of a lone hermit thrush. The hike into Breckenridge was full of beautiful mountains, lodgepole pines (many hit by pine beetles), and a very hot sun that had me pretty cooked by the time I reached my car.

You can go to my Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/photo.php?pid=726784&id=1274464053 for my photos of the 33 mile trek.

This bring my mileage total to 104 miles. I am looking forward to continuing this effort as the summer unfolds. If you are interested in hiking/backpacking a section with me, please email me at mpec@hikeandlearn.org so we can make a plan.