Collegiate West: Day 5

With Chalk Creek Pass ten miles away, I want to be sure that I am up and over the pass before any storms have the chance to build, so I am up early, cooking breakfast and breaking camp in the dark. I click off my head lamp just as I start hiking, enjoying the transition from night to day. 

After a long series of switchbacks up a heavily treed mountainside, I break out of the trees into another glorious Colorado morning. A couple of Forest Service employees that I ran into the evening before told me they had seen a moose up here, so I have my eyes open for a moose!

 Do you see a moose? Neither do I! But it sure is pretty up here, and there's a couple of deer!

Beneath this hillside is what remains of the Alpine Tunnel, a narrow gauge railroad tunnel constructed in the early 1880s. It was in use until 1910 when it was closed due to damage. It has since been sealed off. It was the first railroad tunnel constructed through the Continental Divide in Colorado, and remains the highest railroad tunnel and longest narrow gauge tunnel in North America. 

The old railroad grade makes for some easy hiking...

...but this jeep road that climbs out of the old town of Hancock is no fun to hike on!

As I am filtering some drinking water, I look back down the valley at Hancock Lake and the Chalk Creek drainage. This water eventually flows past Mount Princeton Hot Springs. A most perfect scene!

With the pass behind me, I am now hiking along the Middle Fork of the South Arkansas River. 

An America robin and the Colorado Trail decal both pointing the way - go left.

 I make it to Hunt Lake and my highest campsite at nearly 11,500'. The sky decides to rain lightly on and off as the day ends, and the mosquitoes are a mighty force, so I am tucked in pretty early after a long 17-mile day.

Collegiate West: Day 2

The chattering alarm of a pine squirrel rouses me from my slumber. I guess this little creature is not happy to discover that the tent that materialized in its shady forest the evening before is still here. It is no longer dark, but the sun has not yet made it into this stand of conifers. I move and feel some soreness from yesterday’s hike.  I begin my morning routine – firing up my little alcohol stove to heat water while I begin to break down camp - stuffing the sleeping bag, rolling up the ground pad, dismantling  the tent… all of this interspersed with some yoga poses to continue stretching out these sore muscles. Fueled by a breakfast of oatmeal, walnuts and a little dried fruit, I am on my way.

Hmmm, many of these plants are tinged with white? Is that frost? I reach down and confirm that the thermometer was down below freezing here last night. To think that it was around 100F in Pueblo yesterday. I'm glad I am here and not there. I work my way up the Clear Creek drainage towards Lake Ann Pass and keep exclaiming to myself what a perfect morning it is. The sky must be bluer than it has ever been, with not a cloud in the sky. Gazing at a series of rugged peaks that I am heading towards, known as the Three Apostles, it seems as if I can see every fold and crack and feel their rocky texture, the air is so clear.

Just as I break out of the trees, I meet a fellow heading down the trail. “Bobcat” is hiking the entire Continental Divide Trail, from the Mexican border in New Mexico to the Canadian border in Montana. As we part and I continue south while he heads north towards Wyoming and beyond, I look back and note the small pack on his back. I know I’ve reduced my backpacking weight at least ten pounds lighter than the old days, now down to around 30 pounds, which includes the weight of a few days of food. But, looking at Bobcat’s pack, I think I could do better.  With that thought in mind, me and my 30 pound pack head towards Lake Ann Pass, about 1000’ elevation gain in the next mile. “Just what could I do without that is now in my pack?” I ask myself as I slowly make my way to the pass.

The beauty of landscape, accentuated by the clarity of the air, just keeps blowing me away. I reach a snowfield and gingerly work my way across some slippery snow. I am glad I have these trekking poles. A couple more switchbacks, another stretch of snow, and I am at the pass – 12, 588’ according to the trail guide. The views from the top continue to blow me away. To the west is a huge valley, Taylor Park, with its reservoir and expansiveness. Looking back from where I came from is the rich turquoise water of Lake Ann. I wonder how that little lake got its name. I linger for a long while on the pass as the skies show no sign of a storm any time soon.

I begin the many switchbacks down off the pass and begin to feel some serious heat from some serious sunshine. I enter the trees and decide I need another break, but the mosquitoes are relentless. Never being a fan of Deet, my citronella-based bug juice works ok, but just ok. The skeeters keep me moving down the trail. Wishing for some cloud cover, I leave the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness and spend several miles hiking some hot, rocky, dusty trails that are also used by motorcycles (although I meet none of them today). I begin looking for a camp and find a nice spot above a creek, but the mosquitoes are miserable, so I keep going. Finally making it to the valley floor, I am pleased that a fairly consistent breeze is keeping the skeeters manageable. Tent up, dinner done, food bag hung, I am ready for some down time.

I pull out some reading material and stumble upon these thoughts from someone I’ve never heard of, Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra: “There are many pathways in this life and it doesn’t matter which one you take, for they all have a common destination, and that is the grave. But some paths give you energy and some take it away.” This certainly is a thought-provoking quote to come across while out here on this pathway. The part about the grave has lots to do with why I am out here - life is flying by, it seems, and I want what life I have left to be full of being in wild places, just like this one. 
As for the part about pathways either giving or taking away energy? Well, after hiking nearly 30 miles in two days, feeling so wiped out right now, it begs the question – is this 90-mile trek giving me energy or taking it away? I believe that, considering how far I’ve hiked, passes I’ve traversed, all this mountainous terrain I’ve moved up and down and over and through, it required quite a large amount of energy to do this hike. And the act of setting out on it is what created the energy to actually do it. 
Sure, I’m tired now, but this does not mean that this pathway took my energy away. This tiredness is short-lived, it is fleeting, but the energy that this trek is creating, and will continue to create, is huge. I am pooped as I sit here and write these words, but I can still sense all the energy inside of me that will remain. If it could be quantified, the amount of energy that I spend to do this hike - yesterday's, today's and all the rest of the miles - pales in comparison to the energy I get, and will get, and others will get through my efforts, from doing it. So, I believe that this Collegiate West Backpack for Nature Education is definitely an energy-producing pathway that I am on. That being said, it is time for a good night's sleep - I've got more energy-producing miles tomorrow. Good night!

Collegiate West: Day 1

Helene and I arrive at the trailhead at Twin Lakes around 10:30 under a sky that is more cloudy than blue. A quick check of my gear, I put on my shoes and gators, and I am on my way. The first few miles are easy with a nice tread and relatively flat geography, and I soon find a pretty quick pace that feels good. My goal is to get up and over Hope Pass, at an exposed 12,500’, before the threat of lightning, typically an afternoon concern, becomes an issue. The late start and Hope Pass being nearly nine miles away and 3500’ higher has much to do with the pace I set.

           

The sky is slowly losing its clouds to a rich blue that puts any thoughts of needing my raingear away. In spite of my desire to get up and over the pass, I can’t help but notice – and stop to photograph – several wildflowers that welcome me to the trail – senecio, cinquefoil, lupine, wild rose. After a few miles, the trail takes a left for a more southerly bearing, and the flat easy trail becomes steep and rocky. The quick pace is soon put away with the thoughts of raingear.

A short break to lose my fleece jacket, apply some sunscreen, and have a snack, and I am back on what feels like a slow trudge up an unpleasant rock-strewn trail that once was an old jeep trail. I’ve been climbing for a mile or so when I begin to hear voices. I soon discover they are coming from a group of about 25 teenagers that apparently are finding the trail much more difficult than I am. I leave them behind just as the trail is opening up into a gorgeous alpine wonderland.

The trail narrows and is no longer full of bowling ball sized rocks – that’s good. But the steepness only intensifies as I near the pass. I begin some of the little games I use when a climb brings that “this is sort of like having fun, only different” thought to my oxygen deprived brain. Fifty steps, then I stop for a rest. Thirty steps, then rest. Ten steps… I will make it to that rock, and then stop for a rest. Fortunately, the skies remain nonthreatening, so I don’t feel any great need to move any faster than I am moving. If I keep putting one foot in front of the other, I will get there. What seems like a torturously slow pace on legs that sometimes feel like they are filled with wet cement, I still eventually make it to the top of the pass. OK, I have earned a sit down break, and something substantial to eat.                 
Shortly after making it to the top, a fellow, around age 30, wearing red running attire that included what looked like a light pair of open sandals, arrives and sits down nearby. I remember seeing him two or more hours ago, running down the rocky trail I was climbing. We get to talking, and I learn that Daniel is training for the Leadville 100, a 100-mile mountain footrace that includes two runs to the top of Hope Pass, one from each side. This is his second visit to the top of the pass today in a 25-mile training run. Suddenly, I feel kind of wimpy – here is this guy, running up and down and all around these mountains, in these ultra-light sandals or whatever they are, and I’m complaining to myself about how steep and rocky the trail is. I rationalize that this is my first day on this trek, and I will soon find my trail legs. And he’s so much younger than me. Yeah, that too! These thoughts kind of make me feel a little less like a wimp. Kind of. A little.

The hike down the other side does not have the long, lung-busting climb, but the steepness in reverse on many scree-filled switchbacks is not all that fun either. I finally make it down off the mountainside and begin looking for a place to camp – relatively flat with water nearby. The right spot is not appearing, so I keep on hiking. I hear the howls of several coyotes and smile. I’m tired, as it must be approaching 7pm, but it feels good to once again be out in wild Nature. Knowing I got here, self-powered on these two feet of mine (the original ATV), carrying all that I need to be nourished and warm and dry on my back, with coyote music in the aspen air, makes this moment all the more satisfying. I am feeling a lot less wimpy too.

Leaving Early Monday Morning for Collegiate West!

OK, now I am getting excited. I received word today that, except for a few minor snowfields, the Collegiate West Trail is relatively snow-free. So, the plan is an early Monday morning drive to the start of the trail, which is near Twin Lakes, and I'll be on my way. The actual start and end points of the Collegiate West trail are not at road intersections but at trail intersections with the main Colorado Trail, so I'll be hiking another ten miles or so to get to and then leave the Collegiate West Trail. What's another ten miles, I'm thinking!

The first 35 miles have some healthy climbs over Hope Pass and Lake Ann Pass, both over 12,500', with about 8500' of altitude gain, so I'll be huffing it right off the bat. But I am psyched. I've been getting my gear together, making a list and checking it twice. Once I'm out there, if I forgot something, I'll have to do without. That's actually one of the things I love about backpacking - I take only what I need, I carry it all on my back, and then I'm on my own. If I don't have something, I use my head and figure out how to get by. Truly a back-to-basics kind of experience. Helene reminded me to look at this video that I made at the end of Segment 27 - yes, I'm excited.

Hiking the Colorado Trail, inspired by Walt Whitman

Afoot and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.

Henceforth I ask not good-fortune—I myself am good fortune;
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more, need nothing,
Strong and content, I travel the open road.

- Walt Whitman, from “Song of the Open Road,” Earth, My Likeness

These words by Walt Whitman are an inspiration to me as I get ready for my upcoming hike. No, I won't be on the open road, but I'll soon be on the open trail, the long brown path, free among majestic mountains.

(photo from Colorado Trail Foundation Facebook page)

Tentatively heading out in a couple of weeks!

Reports from the Colorado Trail Foundation Facebook page say that there is still quite a bit of snow on the Collegiate West segments of the trail. But, reports also indicate that it is melting rapidly. So, I have tentative plans to begin my trek sometime during the week of July 21 - but will hold off longer if the snows remain deep. These photos are what I am looking to avoid, as slogging through long stretches of deep snow is not what I have in mind for this trek!

What I'll Be Carrying in my Backpack for the Colorado Trail: Ranger Dave's Videos

Here are a couple of short videos on the gear I will be taking with me as I hit the new 80-mile Collegiate West segments of the Colorado Trail in a few weeks.

So I can enjoy the miles without so much weight on my back, I lean towards packing as light as I can. I will have just what I need to be safe, and then use my head so I don't get myself into sketchy situations.

Songs From the Trail

Over the past few years, I have presented my Colorado Trail musical slide show many times all over Colorado. This is always a pleasure for me, as I get to re-live the many trail experiences I had, once again see photos of Colorado's amazing high country, and sing some of the songs that I kept myself company with when I was out on the trail. And, I would get to raise some more funds for MPEC's Nature education programs.

The other day I was singing some songs for the trees outside my home and for the evening sky, and when I began to play Jackson Browne's These Days, I was immediately transported to being on the Colorado Trail. This is the opening song that I do during the slide show, and so it now has taken on such a strong association with hiking the Colorado Trail. The opening lyric, "Now I've been out walking," takes me right back to being out there in Colorado's wild Nature, walking and walking and walking. Other songs that I now associate with hiking the trail include I Will (Paul McCartney), Kathy's Song (Paul Simon), and Carol King's Home Again, as I sang these over and over again out on the trail, and as part of the slide presentation.

With the upcoming hike, and knowing that I'll be putting together another presentation (with live music of course), I've been giving just a little bit of thought to what songs will be a part of that presentation. I can only use a handful of songs for the presentation - not so for when I am hiking, as I will be out there for a week or more, so I'll have time for lots of songs. So I'll have to narrow it down to just a few for the presentation.

One of the many things I am looking forward to on the upcoming trek is being out there in such beautiful country while keeping myself company with songs that I enjoy singing. It's been awhile since I made a living solely as a musician, but I love making music, and I am so pleased that music has become a part of my Colorado Trail Backpack for Nature Education.

Hitting the Trail Once Again for Nature Education

A few weeks ago, I found myself in front of a small group of people from around the country who had flown in for a retreat at the Horseshoe Lodge. I was presenting on my adventures along the Colorado Trail that I did a few years ago. It was a pleasure to relive the many miles of amazing scenery, sharing stories of the trail, and connecting the adventure to the reason behind it – to raise funds for MPEC’s Nature education programs.

 Last year, I got word through the Colorado Trail Foundation – the organization that stewards the trial – that the Colorado Trail was expanded to include 80 additional miles of trail through the spectacular Collegiate Peaks, home to a dozen of the state's 14,000-foot mountains. The new "Collegiate West" forms a western complement to the classic 80-mile stretch of Colorado Trail on the eastern side of the Collegiate Peaks from Twin Lakes, southwest of Leadville, to south of Monarch Pass, southwest of Salida.

It did not take long for me to come up with the idea that I needed to hike this new 80-mile stretch. Along with learning about the new section of trail, last year presented MPEC with some budget challenges associated with some unexpected expenses while dealing with cuts from some funding sources. The fact is that many local non-profits have not felt any significant improvements since the economy took a nosedive several years ago.

Since the original Colorado Trail Fund-Raising effort was a success, it only makes sense that this new section of trail is providing another opportunity for MPEC. So, sometime this summer, I will be backpacking these new 80 miles with the intention of raising money for MPEC’s Nature education programs. We have set a goal of raising $24,000 from the hike, which translates to $300 per mile. Please consider making a pledge to what we are calling Ranger Dave’s Collegiate West Fund-Raising Backpack for Nature Education. You can go to MPEC's website, click on the Help MPEC Grow icon on the lower right of the page, and then choose Ranger Dave’s Backpack as the donation category. Every penny that is raised will directly support MPEC’s programs that help children experience the wonders of Nature. Thanks so much!